Stop Shaping and Start Styling

When was the last time you browsed through old pictures of yourself? Or sat down and clicked through your old “tagged” images on Facebook? Notice anything? Yep, that’s right: You’ve been sporting the same haircut since before you could drive.

It’s understandable -- many African-American hairstyles stay current through the years, so it’s not like you’re out of style. But that’s no excuse for not changing things up every once in a while. Believe me; even the smallest adjustment can make a difference. And it can give you a new sense of confidence in an area in which you never even thought you were lacking.

So give one of these older-yet-new-again styles a try. Trust me, everyone will love your new look, and your barber will be thrilled to finally try something different on you!

The Hi-top Fade



Yep, the “hi-top fade” is back! Only now, it’s not as mainstream as it was in the late ’80s. And that’s a good thing, since it gives you the freedom to wear it any way you like: clean, textured, tall, short, etc. The best part is that, if you make it work with your overall presentation, you will be the center of attention -- in a good way.

Keep in mind, however, that a hi-top fade can lengthen and also square the face off. There are exceptions to the rule, but if your face shape is square or oblong/rectangular, you may want to avoid this style.


Afro



There are many names for this style: afro, low-fro, afro temp, etc. And depending on which city you’re in, there’s tremendous variety in how it’s worn too. These pictures show what’s most popular at the moment, but if you want to wear it fuller, go for it. The sky is truly the limit here.

Yet another name for this style is the “Neo-Soul” look, simply because -- while it can be worn neat or messy -- it always has an artistic, nonconformist flare. In other words, this style isn’t for everyone. But if your personality fits the bill, it’s a killer look.

The Caesar


The Caesar haircut typically comes in two shades: low/light and dark. Depending on where you live (and your hair type), you may also hear people referring to a third shade: medium.

One thing I like about this style is that the person wearing it can look totally different with each of the different lengths. The lighter the haircut, the more the attention is drawn to the eyes. The darker the cut, the more it creates a frame for the face, allowing facial hair to be prominent.

The Fade


Of course, this style has been around for ages, and for good reason. It fits every face shape and every hair type, and the variations are endless! However, I have noticed a trend toward a darker shade with more length on the top (think Blair Underwood and Maxwell). This new trend adds immediate sophistication to what is already a timeless look.

Dreadlocks


It takes a confident man to pull this hairstyle off -- not to mention a patient one. With the amount of time it will take to grow your hair to these lengths, you will definitely realize soon enough if it’s for you. But with patience comes great reward, as you can see from these images. Good look, right?

Now we’ve all seen different looks within the dreadlock style, but the most versatile and popular now is shoulder-length and neat. That’s because the style is slowly gaining acceptance in the corporate world. In addition to being office-ready, shoulder-length dreads have another benefit: They complement your overall appearance rather than dominating it.
 

Business Casual on a Budget

So the dress code at your new job is “business casual,” and you’re thinking, “What the … ?” Don’t fret, at least not about your wardrobe. Business casual is less straightforward than a suit and tie, but it’s not rocket science. And if you’re smart about it, you can look as sharp as the next guy for a whole lot less.

While it depends on the kind of office in which you work, business casual typically means crisp, professional and sober. “You don't need a tie, per se, but we're not talking about sweatpants. Think of the overall look and make the pieces work together,” says Khurshid Begum, creative director for Modern Culture at Oved Apparel and a fashion industry veteran who's worked for Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and Giorgio Armani. Here’s how to do it:

Step No. 1: See What You Have
Everyone owns jeans, and if you don't have a pair of dark, fitted denim, you should. If you work in a more creative environment, the same goes for a pair of simple black sneakers in either canvas or leather, like Converse Jack Purcells or Adidas Stan Smiths. You probably own a few long-sleeve button-up shirts and a pair of khaki pants as well. These are keepers. "The key here is to look polished, but not too formal. That means your things can’t look too worn-in. If you see yellowed armpits or frayed collars, replace the item," says Begum. For everything else, he says, get thee to a dry cleaner. “Get the wrinkles out and show up looking crisp."

Step No.2: Fill in the Gaps in Your Wardrobe
If you're on a budget, keep the colors basic; don't buy orange pants or green shirts, because you'll be limited in how you can put them together. Stick to blues, grays and beiges and you'll get more outfits out of the same group of clothes. A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to pair every item you purchase with at least two other items. This is how you build upon your wardrobe rather than just buying more clothes.

Keep the following in mind as essentials: a nice belt, a good pair of leather dress shoes, a few pairs of khakis, a good sport coat, and several shirts (a couple of whites, a couple of blues and a couple of stripes to mix it up). Begum also recommends owning a half-dozen pairs of dark socks that come up to the calf. “The easiest way to look like an idiot is to show up in a great casual outfit and ruin it with white sweat socks," he says. If there’s still room in your budget, a couple of sweaters in different styles, while not necessary, can be useful extras: a cardigan that can be worn in place of a sport coat or under one if it's not too bulky, and a crew neck or v-neck or even sweater vest that can be worn in the same way.

Step No. 3: Put It All Together
You can wear a blue shirt and khakis twice in a week, but change it up the second time, maybe with that cardigan, or with a navy knit tie (another good extra if you have the budget). If you go with the tie, and you’re in the right work environment, you could also wear sneakers that day to balance out the look. Get the idea?

Step No. 4: Shop
Consignment shops, thrift stores and eBay are great if you genuinely enjoy shopping and have a gift for putting things together. If not, contemporary men’s brands like Banana Republic and J. Crew are good for inspiration even if they’re a bit out of your price range, because practically everything goes together already. Pick up a couple of basic outfits at either of those stores, or use them for ideas before you head to H&M or the Gap.

Take Your Scent From Day to Night

In the Will Ferrell comedy Anchorman, Paul Rudd’s character proudly proclaims that his cologne -- Sex Panther -- is “illegal in nine countries.” He goes on to brag about its lady-killing qualities: “They’ve done studies, you know. Sixty percent of the time, it works … every time.”

If your cologne has similar powers, you’re a lucky man. But seducing the ladies is probably not uppermost in your mind when you splash your scent on in the morning -- and it shouldn’t be. You’ve got to get through the workday first. The ideal, of course, would be a one-stop cologne solution for day and night. Something that, as Mehdi Lisi -- senior fragrance development manager for International Flavors and Fragrances -- says, would make you “feel fresh and clean in morning, go through the day feeling energized, and then become a machine of seduction at night.”

Unfortunately, chemistry -- both that of our bodies and that of cologne itself -- makes the one-application goal somewhat elusive. Made up largely of alcohol, cologne begins evaporating immediately upon touching your skin. As your body temperature warms, it dissipates even faster. By the end of the workday, chances are it will be long gone. So what’s the man in search of an all-day, all-purpose cologne to do? The experts have a few suggestions.

Most importantly, do not douse yourself with vast quantities of cologne to make it last. “Your office mates will kill you,” says A.J. Jones, an aesthetician at the Nickel Spa for Men in New York City. It’s far better to reapply later in the day than to go too heavy in the morning. And this should go without saying, but if you’ve hit the gym on your lunch break or after work, you’ve got to shower before reapplying cologne. Otherwise, you’re only going to exude a nasty mash-up of sweat and scent. Jones also suggests using multiple products -- such as body wash, deodorant, and aftershave or cologne -- from the same label. This will deliver the same scent to different parts of the body and in different intensities.

And there are ways to give your cologne a fighting chance at making it past the 5 p.m. whistle, says Sarah Horowitz, owner and chief perfumer of custom fragrance company Sarah Horowitz Parfums. For one, if you pour a bit into your hands and clap, it will help burn off the alcohol and reduce the cologne to its signature (and longest-lasting) elements. Another stratagem Horowitz offers is to layer the scent by applying it to places that will retain it longer: “Your skin radiates heat, but hair does not. Put some cologne on your hands and then smooth it into the back of your hair or onto your beard.” You can also dab a little on a jacket or shirt -- providing you’ve rubbed it into your hands first. Whatever you do, don’t spray cologne directly onto your clothing. You might smell good, but that big stain on your shirt will likely mitigate any positive effects.

And what of the holy grail? Is there a cologne that will allow you to strike the right notes at varying times of day? Indeed, there is. Colognes that contain two contrasting scents, such as citrus and wood, can help you create different impressions, says Lisi. Citrus, which has volatile molecules, will express itself early; as your workday wears on, however, the citrus notes will wear out and allow the sexier, more masculine woodsy notes to make their presence known. Consider it a two-tier approach. There are many types of cologne out there that will give you this one-two punch. Lisi recommends Diesel’s Only the Brave, Fierce by Abercrombie & Fitch, I Am King by Sean John and The One by Dolce & Gabbana.

Regardless of the one you choose, know that a signature scent is something by which people will remember you long after you’ve left the room. Choose and apply your cologne wisely: It will serve you well throughout the day and beyond. Overdo it, however, and you might start reminding people of a 1970s TV reporter -- one with a zero-percent chance of impressing anyone.

Razor Technology: 2011

Keeping up with the latest trends in music (Yolanda Be Cool in, OneRepublic out) and technology (iPad in, Nokia smartphones out) is easy. But razor technology is a different story. Even though razors are an every day essential, it’s hard to keep track of what’s new, hot and different. And forget about asking the store stock guy for help on the subject. (You’ll be lucky if he’s even able to direct you to the razors.)

So here’s a primer on the two chart-topping cartridge razors, the Gillette Fusion ProGlide and Wilkinson’s Quattro Titanium Precision, and one best-selling electric razor, the Braun Pulsonic 790cc -- with insight from Michael Gilman, blogger for his site, GroomingGuys.com.

Gillette Fusion ProGlide

This upgrade to the world’s best-selling shaving system, the five-blade Fusion, incorporates a blade with thinner edges that’s covered in a low-resistance coating to slice with less tug and pull. A blade stabilizer has been added to keep the blades properly spaced apart, and the Lubrastrip is 25 percent bigger to help the razor glide across the face more easily. “Gillette has probably maxed out the number of blades at five, so they’re focusing now on making the quality of the blades better, and a better moisture strip,” says Gilman. “They succeed here.”

Wilkinson Quattro Titanium Precision

The main concept behind Wilkinson’s new razor is the combination of three technical systems: It’s a regular razor with four blades, a contour cutter and a trimmer in one. To get beards and chops in shape, men formerly had to use an additional electrical trimmer. In the new Wilkinson product it is included in the handle of the razor. It works with an integrated battery and can be used with or without shaving foam. The adjustable comb in the trimmer can cut hair to four different lengths between 0.3 and 6.0 millimeters. “Since it’s waterproof you can use the trimmer in the shower, too,” says Gilman. “That’s useful.”

Braun Pulsonic 790cc

Braun’s proprietary Pulsonic Technology oscillates the electric 790cc at 10,000 micro-vibrations per minute to help deliver an outstanding close and comfortable shave. Its two shaving surfaces also pivot and flex to contour the face, and you can clean, lubricate and dry the shaver with a simple press of a button. “There’s a lot of validity to the Pulsonic Technology. Barbers will do an aggressive massage with their hands to get the whiskers loose and the face putty-like for a better shave. It’s the same basic idea here,” says Gilman.

Are You Getting a Cutting-edge Shave?

Your old man can be useful for some things. He probably taught you how to throw a ball, how to change a tire, how to tie a necktie -- all timeless techniques. But do yourself a favor: Forget whatever lessons he gave you on shaving. Razor technology and the understanding of how to treat your skin have improved dramatically since he was your age, when computers took up a whole room and guys thought Cher was hot. To get the best shave possible, read this up-to-date advice on methods and products, gleaned from true shaving experts. Then maybe pass it along to Dad.

  1. The cold-water myth.
    If Dad ever said that a preshave splash of cold water to the face is the key to a brisk and clean-cut razor treatment, he’s all wet -- never mind if that’s what soldiers in World War II movies do. “A hot shower or hot towel to the face before the shave opens up the pores and softens the hair,” says David Petersen, owner of Rudy’s Barbershop in Seattle. This allows for a much smoother, easier and closer cut.
  2. Real men don’t dry-shave.
    A generation ago, guys considered themselves manlier if they treated their skin like a cow’s hide. Today, “moisturizer” and “exfoliation” are no longer dirty words. Using a preshave product is the first step to protecting the skin and preparing it for the razor by reducing friction and improving glide. “With the use of preshave products, you can minimize a lot of the hazards of shaving, like razor burn, cuts and nicks,” says famed Hollywood barber William Gornik.

    Use a natural-bristle shaving brush to apply the shave cream. “I highly recommend it. I really would not shave without using one for preparation,” Gornik says. It generates lather, opens pores, sweeps away dead skin and raises facial hair.

  3. Razors do make a difference.
    In Dad’s younger days, a razor with two blades was a revelation. Now some boast five -- not to mention lubrication strips, pivoting heads, low-resistance blade coatings, and even anti-clogging rinse slots. The overall difference is a “cleaner and more consistent cut,” according to Peterson.

    But just as your facial contours and the thickness and consistency of your facial hair are unique, so are the results you’ll get from different razors. “Since today’s razors can be so sharp and aggressive, I recommend experimenting to find which ones work best for you,” says Gornik.

  4. It ain’t over when you think it’s over.

    Dad probably implied that once the last patch of stubble is shaved, your job is essentially done. He was wrong. “To finish the process, you need to close the pores,” says Peterson. This is the time to splash on cold water. Afterward, apply an aftershave balm to keep the pores closed and to moisturize the skin, allowing it to maintain its strength and health.