Track Down Your Scent

How much does your nose know when it comes to how you should smell? Here’s our scents-ible primer.



When it comes to cologne, chances are you fall into one of two categories: You either douse yourself daily with the same brand you’ve used since high school (“It worked for me then, so it has to work for me now, right?”) or you avoid the stuff and prefer to go au naturel (“Chicks really dig my pheromones”).

Whichever one sounds more like you, it’s time to rethink. If you’re the brand-loyal douser, now’s the time to update your scent and tone down your method of application. And if you’re scent-free, consider this before you swear off cologne for good: Scientists at the University of Liverpool have recently discovered that the mere act of applying fragrance boosts a man’s self-confidence to the degree of increasing his sex appeal.

If that isn’t enough to send you running to the nearest duty-free store, well, then, you probably need something a little stronger than cologne to help you out.

Here’s how to find your secret scent weapon of choice and wield it for the most effect. The ladies will never know what hit them.

Pick a Family
Unlike your complex relatives, there are only five different cologne “families” (that’s fragrance industry-speak): Citrus (light and fruity), Oriental (spicy and sweet), Fougere (pronounced foo-JER: mossy and oakey), Chypre (pronounced SHEE-pr; woodsy and floral) and Marine (think fresh, salty sea air).

Each category has its own allure, and even season -- Orientals and Fougeres are more popular in cold winter months because they smell spicy and warm, while Marine and Citrus are more popular in summer because they offer a cool and refreshing contrast to the heat.

If you already know which category you like best, that’s great, skip to the next section. If not, think about how you want to smell as opposed to how you think you should smell. And ask your girlfriend what smells she likes best. After all, that’s why you’re wearing it, right? Many guys assume that women are attracted to “manly” smells like musk and oak, when in fact, your lady may be more inclined to nuzzle up to a whiff of cucumber and licorice. (There was an actual study linking those aromas to increased sexual arousal in women.)

Take a Test Drive

Fragrances smell different on different people due to a number of chemical factors -- skin type, pH levels, sweat glands, etc. -- so just because a certain fragrance smells godly when it mingles with the DNA of David Beckham doesn’t mean it’ll smell good on a mere mortal like you (though we’re dying to know how you got to smell Beckham). This means you’re going to need to take trip to a department store (one with a well-stocked men’s scent counter) and try them out.

Find a few colognes with the general scent profile you think you’ll like, then spray them on those little pieces of paper at the counter. Take a sniff, wave it around, wait a few minutes, repeat (wouldn’t hurt to bring a woman with you, since you might not be able to objectively judge your own scent). Fragrances have what the industry calls top, middle and base notes, which basically means they’ll smell different the longer they’ve been in the air (or on your skin). The “top note” is the first (and strongest) smell your nose picks up, and it will dissipate over time.

Don't Hit the Bottle Too Hard

When it comes to applying cologne, the biggest mistake guys make is to go overboard. If a little bit makes you smell good, then a lot will make you smell even better, right? Wrong. People should be able to detect your smell when they’re within a few inches of you, not when you’re across the room. A few spritzes right after you get out of the shower is plenty.

If you want to make a bottle last even longer, keep it in the fridge. Just don’t reach for it before you’ve had your coffee and accidentally spritz yourself with that bottle of I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter. (Don’t worry, your secret is safe with us.)

Be Product-ive With Your Hair

Know your mop needs taming but don’t know where to begin? Start here, with our quick guide to men’s hair products -- and how to use them.

Gel, goop, putty, pomade … it’s all scary enough to make a guy’s hair stand up straight. But it doesn’t have to be that way -- unless that’s the look you want, of course. In truth, you only need to stock your arsenal with five different kinds of lotions and potions and know two rules on using them:

First, don’t use too much -- a dime-sized glob does the job for most guys. Second, the drier your hair, the stronger the hold. “The rule of thumb with any product is you’ll get a stronger hold if you apply it to drier hair,” says Chuck Olson, a New York-based hairstylist.

Here’s what to use to get the look you’re after:

Hair Cream
Level of hold: 1

What it does: This stuff feels like lotion and works as a light conditioner.

“Cream is good for reducing dryness and taming frizzy hair,” says Olson. “It gives shape without a lot of hold.”

What to do with it: After you get out of the shower, squirt the cream into your hands, run it through your wet hair and comb to distribute evenly.

Celebrity style icon: George Clooney
 

Pomade
Level of hold: 2

What it does: This is a cool product because it does everything: It offers hold, it defines, it adds shine and it has a slightly pasty feel. “This is the product for a really slicked-back look,” says Cori Randall, New York City-based hairstylist and instructor. “In the old days, it created a cement helmet-head appearance, but new water-based pomades create the same look without all the stiffness.”

What to do with it: For a wet and shiny look, apply it right after you get out of the shower. For a more natural look, wait until your hair is about 50 percent dry, then apply. “It’s also great for curly hair,” says Randall. “It’s a humectant (a moisture-retaining ingredient), so it keeps hair tamed and under control.”

Celebrity style icon: Andy Garcia


Paste
Level of hold: 3

What it does: “This is the magic stuff behind the I-spent-20-minutes-on-my-hair-to-look-like-I-just-rolled-out-of-bed look,” says Randall. It’s fiber-based and matte, so it’s good for creating texture and separation.

What to do with it: Put a dime-sized amount in your palms and rub your hands together vigorously for 20 to 30 seconds (you want to really warm it up). Then use your fingertips to apply it to your hair -- first at the roots, then at the tips.

Celebrity style icon: Robert Pattinson in Twilight
 

Goop or Putty
Level of hold: 4

What it does: Use this when you want some shine and a strong hold without all the crispiness. “It looks a little more natural than gels or pomades,” says Randall. It also has a more versatile finish -- you can go back and play with your hair and restyle it throughout the day.

What to do with it: Squirt a dime-sized glob into your hands, rub them together, then run them through your hair, starting at the roots and working outwards. If you want to create spikes or chunks, separate your hair into large sections and apply some extra goop to each section, focusing on the tips, with your fingertips.

Celebrity style icon: Brad Pitt
 

Gel
Level of hold: 5

What it does: “Gels are good for guys who want a strong hold,” says Olson. “On straight hair, it creates a really slicked-back look; on wavy locks and curls, it adds definition.” Bottom line: Gelled hair is going nowhere -- this stuff makes your locks feel almost crispy.

What to do with it: Use on just-showered hair for a wet look with lots of hold; or apply on dry hair, then blow-dry for a slightly more natural look.

Celebrity style icon: Christian Bale as Bruce Wayne in The Dark Knight

Manscaping: The Art of the Body Shave

Whether your back resembles the Amazon or you just think below-the-belt topiary’s cool, here’s what you need to know before you begin.



Remember that guy in middle school with all the back hair? He probably had a nickname like “werewolf” or “yeti.” And he had no choice but to learn the art of body shaving, better known as manscaping, at an early age (or it’s possible that he was so scarred from the locker room jokes that he turned into a recluse and didn’t bother).

Now that you’re older and pumping out more testosterone than when you sneaked into PG-13 movies, the subject of body hair isn’t quite as funny. Whether or not to shave -- and where -- is entirely personal. But being clean and tidy is definitely in.

“It is one of those things that men are finally comfortable talking about,” says Dr. Lisa Kellett, a dermatologist. “Many men are acquiring a more tailored, less hairy look.”

Successful manscaping without nicks or ingrown hairs involves somewhat different strategies than those used for shaving the face. Here are tips for clearing hair -- all the way down to the groin, where it can sometimes be hard to spot the lion in the tall grass.

Anywhere
Always manscape after or during a shower so the skin and hair is completely softened. To get an even smoother shave, shear any long hair with an electric trimmer or scissors, says Dr. Jeffrey Benabio, a dermatologist and skin care expert. Then apply shaving gel or cream and use a razor that adjusts to the shape of your body. Rinse it often.

Armpits
Remember the cardinal rule of shaving: don’t apply pressure with the razor. To avoid nicks and ingrown hairs, let it glide across the skin. When you’re finished, avoid an alcohol-based deodorant for a while: It’ll irritate.

Chest
Sure, women shave against the grain on their legs, but don’t follow their lead, especially on the chest, where the skin is softer. Glide the razor mostly downhill except around the nipples -- you’ll need to be extra careful here. (Losing a nipple would make for lots of stares at the beach -- not the good kind.) Follow the hair’s varying directions and be sure not to nick the coarse skin.

Back
Don’t try this alone. The person shaving should merely follow the advice above (shave with grain, let razor glide, etc.). A few more words of wisdom, though: don’t ask a girl to do this on your first date.

Groin
Again, cut the hair short first. Then use a fresh blade, pulling the skin as taut and flat as possible. Use only light, short strokes. These last tips are especially important when clearing the brush around the tree, so to speak. There’s no real danger to hitting any veins or lopping anything off in this, um, especially sensitive area.

Still, nicks are easier to get if you’re not meticulous. When you’re done, use moisturizer or else the area could itch for days and result in ingrown hairs -- the manscape from which there’s no escape.

Shaving: Secrets Dad Never Told You

Maybe you and Pa never had “the talk.” Or maybe you did, and still your face suffers from razor bumps and irritation. Here’s the shaving primer you never had.



It’s that subject you and your dad never mentioned. He felt too awkward to talk about it, and you -- fearful he’d go into graphic details on how it’s done properly and (ugh) tell the story of his first time -- didn’t even know how to bring it up. Yes, we’re talking about shaving.

As a result, you haven’t enjoyed the benefits of a baby-clean face since before your voice dropped an octave. And if you don’t have the sharpest shaving IQ, don’t worry: You’re not alone. Dr. Lisa Kellett, a dermatologist, says about 50 percent of her patients don’t shave properly. “It’s a time-consuming ritual, and the other problem is educating men about their skin,” she says. “The trend of men’s skin care is a new one.”

Your dad will agree with that last point, although you and he will probably never talk about it. Here are some pointers on how to shave the right way so you and the old man can talk about more comfortable subjects, like women.

Step 1: Shower first
Hot water opens the pores and softens the skin and hair. Ideally, you should also use an exfoliator, which will remove the dead outer layer of skin and keep the pores clean, recommends Kellett.

Step 2: Lather up
Use a thick, nondrying shave gel and apply it in a circular motion. “If you have one, use a badger-hair shaving brush, which helps lift the hairs, allowing the razor to cut them more cleanly and minimizing the stubborn few that escape the blade,” says Dr. Jeffrey Benabio, a dermatologist and skin care expert. 

Step 3: Use a sharp, multiblade razor
If you don’t have an effective, multiblade razor, you’re undermining all your other efforts. Rinse after every pass to remove hair and shave cream, and don’t press hard when shaving or you’ll be removing a layer of skin too. “Men don’t have to sacrifice their skin for a closer shave,” says Kellett. Just let the blade glide over your face and replace the cartridge after four or five uses.

Step 4: Shave in the direction the hair grows
Shave in the wrong direction and you’ll scrape away a layer of skin. And keep in mind: Hair doesn’t always point downward -- especially on the sideburns, chin and neck, notes Benabio. 

Step 5: Wash your face
Splash with cold water to close the pores. Pat dry.

Step 6: Moisturize
Lotion or aftershave will regenerate the skin. “A gel-based one is better for acne-prone skin,” advises Kellett.